The most common problem with hatching angelfish eggs is stress from the fish itself. If the fish gets nervous or stressed, it will eat the roe. However, good conditioning of the aquarium and the provision of a normal, natural environment for them will result in the rearing of the parents. Sometimes this job is done by the addition of reverse osmosis water and the provision of good quality food feed during the incubation and breeding tenure.
Some fish do not eat more while protecting the spawn. These fish should not be overfed during this period. Similarly, they should not be stored in a rushed place or more exposed to light. The place must be huge and must contain more hiding places. You must take special care with the quality of the water for a perfect pairing and produce natural fingerlings. If it doesn’t work, you always have the option of artificial hatching.
It is very important to note two points regarding the artificial hatching of angelfish. The most important is aeration, while the second focuses on the importance of crystal clear water. There are many ways to artificially hatch eggs and they are being used by many different breeders, but the one we are going to discuss here is the best known.
The technique for the best reproduction of eggs is the preparation of a clean “gallon” jar. Seventy-five of the total area is filled with fresh tap water, one hour ahead of schedule for spawning. Fungicide, especially “Methylene Blue”, is then added just before the slate is removed. The water is then given a blue hue with a few drops of Acriflavine. The spawning slate is then removed from the aquarium and placed upside down in the hatching jar.
Typically, angelfish eggs take at least sixty hours to hatch at eighty degrees Fahrenheit. Before the eggs hatch, they remain in a temporary rippling state condition for five days. It is not recommended to feed the fish at this stage until they are free swimming. It is very important to clear up some of the superstitions regarding angelfish eggs. A common belief is that one should not expose the angelfish eggs while transferring them to the jar. Soon they will see death, as they say. As far as my experience is concerned, I always transfer the eggs from the aquarium to the jar and never find an exceptional mortality rate. But of course it’s worth changing the slate to a ready-to-use incubation jar at 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit without spending much time outdoors. The temperature can be adjusted with the help of a heater or a fixed low-voltage box. Lighting is not always a prominent factor in hatch rate. Most eggs hatch at their best, even in direct light.
The direction of the air bubbles has nothing to do with the hatch rate of the fish eggs. If you place the air stone in such a way that the bubbles can flow right over the center of the spawn, it won’t disturb the hatching process. The same goes for the position of the fry. Most people think that if the fry end up on the bottom, the fish is going to deform; the fact is quite the opposite because the position of the fry has no relation to the hatching of the fish.
Change the water in the jar if it is cloudy or has too many dead fish. The bacteria attack the angelfish during the hatching session, causing its fins to fold vertically. To avoid this situation, use an antibiotic. After fulfilling all the requirements, if you still go for a lower hatch ratio, then it is clear that there would be a problem in mate matching. One may be infertile or become too old for production. This can also be due to hard water. Eggs cannot harden in hard water. Due to low osmotic pressure and deionization with higher pH of the water, the eggs will not be able to hatch.